Navigation is pretty easy between Dubbo and the Queensland border north of Bourke.

Basically the roads are straight - and I mean really straight. Some stretches go for 100km with out making a single turn or even bend. And as there is generally only one sealed road navigation is pretty easy!

We stopped in Nyngan in a real burger joint and checked out the air force memorial chopper in the middle of town. On the road to Bourke the ghostly abandoned rail station  at Girilambone which took its name from an Aboriginal word meaning “place of many stars”. The railway station opened in 1884 and closed in 1906. Current population of Girilambone is 68! 

Just nearby is Gilgandra, the infamous location of one of Australia’s most notorious murderers, Jimmy Blacksmith, made famous by Tomas Keneally in “The Chant of Jimmy Blacksmith”. Apparently one of the first victims was brought back to Girilambone to be buried.


We spent the night in Bourke (always an interesting experience) read for the amazing trip north from Bourke into Queensland.

Fuelling up in Bourke we met an aboriginal elder, Jack, who had just finished a six month walk in his country around Innaminka and the Cooper Basin. He was showing his two young grandsons the land and talked at length about how proud his people are or their traditional ways. As Richard and I squatted talking with him in the forecourt of the service station. We love being on the road.

We crossed into Queensland after a quick cuppa at a roadhouse run by an ex-shearer. He’d fallen off his horse six weeks ago and smashed his wrist. You could see how he was struggling with his injury, but enjoyed talking with us.

We rode into Cunnamulla to find a fabulous cake stall at the local pub. Richard bought a homemade banana cake for a whole $3 while I got the coffe which was $14 for two cappuccinos! Lots of banter with the locals who described every motorbike accident that had happened in the last 5 years and the injuries sustained in gruesome detail. Thanks everyone …

We skirted through gorgeous river channel country (all dry) dodging around emus, pigs, goats and the ubiquitous roos. The dirt getting ever redder as we head west.

Richard found us a great campsite among rocky outcrops and we set up our lux campsite resplendent with camp chairs, a table (Richards pannier), cheese platter and wine. No roughing it for us. We watched the sun set and stars come out. 

I made a fire and the day was done.